We didn't sleep inForks proper, but rather at a small campground on the beach south of Forks,named Klaloch. It was an incredibly beautiful site in the Hoh rainforest with aneighboring lodge where we ate an extravagant meal overlooking the driftwood -littered sea before inflating our sleeping pads and drifting to sleepourselves.
The map did not show much in the way of places to stay about70-80 miles south of Klaloch but for one Warm Showers host in the city ofCosmopolis, just south of Aberdeen. We had tailwinds the whole way down, withroads decorated by rivers and timbered hillsides and the occasional giant maplegently shading the road.
Aberdeen is the home of Kurt Cobain of Nirvana and is alsoan old logging town that averages over 100 inches of rain a year. The town isdark and tall buildings tell stories of boom and their cracks and decayelaborate the story. Much to say on Aberdeen, but one must see for themselves!Bring a friend with you or just bike right on through and try not to stop!
The day ended in the most miraculous way possible by landingwith our hosts in Cosmopolis. We rode a multi-use path all the way fromAberdeen to their house - which is a converted courthouse and jailhouse - andnow serves as a coffee and teahouse as well as home for their family. Withutmost generosity they made large sandwiches and bowls of chili and hot lattesfor us and told us stories of their adventures and of their town. We set up ourtent in their yard by the river and they wired an extension cord out for us andgave us wifi. We watched a movie in our tent!
They sent us off the next day with more large sandwiches andwarm drinks! What more could a bike traveler ask for? We had a small 45 mileday and did beer and wine tasting, roadside snacking, local Country Mart icecream shopping, and campsite-neighbor-mingling on our way to Grayland state park.And yes, the name is quite apt. The air remained gray the whole day and we hadour first rain of the tour here- which made the fact that our host from theprevious night dropped off hot soup to our hiker biker site all the moreincredible! Such kindness and such people are a huge part of what makes a largeand ridiculous adventure such as this completely doable and furthermore -unforgettable.
The next day we crossed the very terrifying bridge fromWashington into Astoria with not many dead birds in the small bike lane andeven a tailwind instead of crosswinds! Aconstruction worker stopped us on the middle of the bridge and told us tales ofall the bikers he had seen get hit by cars on the bridge, and then let usproceed into the windy town of Astoria where we bought Tri-flo, expensivelunch, and tasting flights at the local craft distillery. After sampling handdistilled spirits, we rode our bikes up some San Francisco like hills out ofAstoria, and then southwards towards Seaside we went - with only potatoes andabsinthe in the belly…