Mattfound a dirt inter-urban trail that led us through the forest parallel thehighway all the way to the coast. They don't call them Skagit flat lands fornothing. Yes we had a headwind, but boy the boggy wetland-ridden coast wasbeautiful.
Westopped in a very small town named Edison, population 105, for the best salmontacos the world has yet to offer us. Whatever you do, whoever you are, stop inEdison, Washington!
Thenwe crossed a burley bridge to get onto Fidalgo Island which charmed us with itsRed Cedar trees and lookouts onto the San Juan Islands. We met one of Fidalgo'sfinest- who named each of the islands for us, and who conveniently also happensto live in a pickup truck at that exact vista.
DeceptionPass is incredible and should not be skipped over. It bridges Fidalgo andWhidbey Islands. We then took a ferry over to Port Townsend and met severalother bike tourists as we waited.
Oncein Port Townsend we booked it from the ferry terminal to the only campsitearound - up some steep hills and no-bike-lane roads only to arrive at thecampsite and be turned away! We lingered for a few seconds and sure enough, afellow biker offered up part of his tiny hiker- biker site for us and the otherbikers to set up camp at. We packed it in like sardines, and fell asleep to thesound of each other's breath through our tents and the crazy calls of themighty Barred Owl who perched in the maple trees above us.
FromPort Townsend we headed just west of Port Angeles, where a friend of ours ishomesteading. She took us to see the mouth of the Elwha River- which onlyrecently had its dam removed for Environmental reasons. Bald eagles flew amongthe tips of the fir trees above the mighty river. At her house we got to playwith hairy piglets, a puppy, llamas, ducks, and walk along a salmon run creekon a handmade path. Dreamy.
Weheaded to Lake Crescent for a short day full of single track on the north shoreof the lake and stunning Caribbean blue waters. Definitely recommended.
FromLake Crescent we headed To Forks, where the film Twilight was filmed and wherethey average 145 inches of rainfall a year. We're glad we went - and probablywon't be back! Onwards we go... Towards the Oregon border!